all the foods - North East India
Northeast Indian food is a very different experience from the creamy curries and naan many travellers associate with India. In states like Mizoram, Manipur, Nagaland, and Assam, food traditions draw on local produce, tribal cooking methods, and time honoured techniques such as smoking, drying, and fermentation. The result is a cuisine low in dairy but rich in earthy, wholesome flavours that feel deeply connected to the region.
Some of the fermented ingredients can be strong, funky, and, let’s be honest, not always for everyone. But they’re a core part of the region’s food identity and well worth trying at least once.
Many of these dishes don’t show up on typical tourist menus, so you’ll often need to seek out street stalls, markets, and small family run restaurants to find the real thing.
In this guide, we’ll be exploring food exclusively from Mizoram, Manipur, Nagaland, and Assam, the dishes we discovered, what goes into them, and where you can track them down.
Mizoram
sanpiau
rice porridge
What is it?
Sanpiau is a popular rice porridge from Mizoram, typically served with crispy rice crackers, meat, and a touch of spice. Its origins trace back to the Burmese dish hysan byok—hysan meaning rice and byok meaning boiled.
What is in it?
The dish features rice, fresh coriander, crispy rice crackers, and meat (usually pork or chicken), along with various herbs and spices for added flavour.
Where can I eat it?
Sanpiau is one of the easiest traditional foods to find in Mizoram. It’s commonly available at restaurants serving Mizo cuisine, such as Mizo Diner or JM Restaurant in the capital, Aizawl.
Dairy & gluten free.
mizo bai
Vegetable stew
What is it?
Mizo Bai is a nutritious, mildly spicy vegetable stew that is a staple in Mizoram, known for its simplicity and health benefits. It features boiled vegetables and can be served with or without meat.
What is in it?
The dish typically includes a mix of leafy greens such as spinach, along with vegetables like green beans, aubergine, and chillies. Other seasonal vegetables can also be added. Variations may include chicken or pork for added protein.
Where can I eat it?
Mizo Bai is often prepared at home rather than in restaurants, but it can occasionally be found on the menus of Mizo eateries. We tried it at Mizo Diner in Aizawl and spotted it at a few other traditional restaurants in the city.
Dairy & gluten free
chow satuileih
spicy noodle broth
What is it?
Chow Satuileih, which translates to “noodles with meat broth poured over it,” is a spicy noodle dish in a rich meat broth; it reminded me a bit of Vietnamese pho. It is a popular snack in Mizoram, known for its comforting and flavourful combination of noodles and broth.
What is in it?
The dish includes noodles, meat (usually pork or chicken), cabbage, garlic, chili, and turmeric, giving it a spicy, meaty flavour.
Where can I eat it?
Chow Satuileih is a common dish served in many cafés and restaurants across Mizoram. You can find it at places like JM Restaurant in Aizawl, among other local spots.
Dairy free.
vawkser rep chhum
smoked pork & vegetable broth
What is it?
Vawkser Rep Chhum is a traditional Mizo dish combining smoked pork (vawkser rep) with boiled vegetables (chhum) in a simple, comforting broth. The smoked meat gives the soup its distinct, deeply savoury flavour.
What is in it?
The dish includes boiled smoked pork, broth, and cabbage, though other vegetables may be added. It is typically served with boiled or fried rice on the side.
Where can I eat it?
Smoked pork is a Mizo specialty and can be found in various forms across Mizoram. Vawkser Rep Chhum, along with other variations of smoked pork (such as stir fried with vegetables), is commonly available in local restaurants and even as street food throughout the state.
Dairy & gluten free.
sawhchiar
savoury rice porridge
What is it?
Sawhchiar is a lightly spiced dish made by boiling rice and meat together in one pot. The meat adds flavour to the rice, resulting in a creamy texture similar to risotto. It was probably my favourite Mizo dish I tried.
What is in it?
The dish consists of rice, meat (usually pork or chicken), and a few spices such as ginger, chili, and garlic.
Where can I eat it?
Sawhchiar can be found in small local eateries in Aizawl that serve traditional Mizo food.
Dairy & gluten free.
Manipur
kelli chana
chickpea snack
What is it?
Kelli Chana is a spicy chickpea snack from Manipur, cooked with minimal oil, making it a tasty, healthy option. It is usually enjoyed as a snack rather than a main course.
What is in it?
The dish features chickpeas, chili, garlic, ginger, coriander, and a small amount of oil. It is often topped with onion and shredded cabbage for added texture and flavour.
Where can I eat it?
A great place to try Kelli Chana is at the restaurant within Kangla Fort in Imphal, the capital of Manipur. The fort, a key tourist attraction, offers a small restaurant serving local dishes. Note that there is an entry fee to visit the fort, but it’s well worth it if you are visiting Imphal.
Vegan, dairy & gluten free.
nga atoiba thongba
fish curry
What is it?
Nga Atoiba Thongba is a flavourful, spicy fish curry from Manipur, literally translating to “disintegrated” or “broken fish curry. The name reflects how the fish, including its skin and bones, breaks down into the curry during cooking. Be warned: if you’re not comfortable with eating fish that includes bones, this dish may not be for you. It’s often served as part of a traditional Manipuri thali.
What is in it?
Traditionally prepared with freshwater lake fish, the curry features vegetables like peas, tomatoes, and potatoes. Spices include chili, cumin, coriander, turmeric, ginger, garlic, and bay leaves, creating a spicy aromatic dish.
Where can I eat it?
Although it’s rarely listed as a standalone item on menus, you’ll often find it included in Manipuri thalis at local eateries. I tried it a few times in Imphal, the capital of Manipur, at places like Chakluk Hotel (a restaurant despite the name) or other nearby establishments.
Dairy and gluten free.
kangshoi
vegetable soup
What is it?
Kangshoi is a spicy, nutritious vegetable soup from the Meitei people of Manipur. It is a very healthy dish, usually made by boiling herbs and vegetables in water with little or no oil.
What is in it?
Many different seasonal vegetables can be used, such as leafy greens like spinach or cabbage, potatoes, beans, and other local produce, along with ginger, garlic, chillies, and fermented fish called ngari. Some versions also include dried fish or meat.
Where can I eat it?
It is generally cooked at home, but you can sometimes find kangshoi included as part of a thali in Manipuri restaurants.
Dairy and gluten free.
eromba
fermented fish and vegetables
What is it?
Eromba is a traditional dish from the Meitei people of Manipur, made from mashed vegetables and fermented fish. The word "Eromba" comes from the Manipuri phrase eeru taana lonba, meaning "mixing and stirring watery." The dish is made by boiling vegetables, herbs, spices, and the key ingredient fermented fish (ngari) before mashing them together. While very healthy, it is also rather pungent due to the fermented fish.
What is in it?
Vegetables can include potatoes, tomatoes, and bamboo shoots (sometimes also fermented). The dish includes ngari (fermented fish), along with chili, garlic, and onion. There’s no fixed recipe, as the ingredients can vary depending on what’s in season.
Where can I eat it?
While Eromba is more of a home cooked dish, I did occasionally find it as part of a Manipuri style thali in Imphal.
Dairy & gluten free.
Nagaland
galho
rice & greens porridge
What is it?
Galho is a simple, porridge like dish from Nagaland, made by boiling rice with leafy greens. It is mild and quite plain, so don’t expect a party in your mouth unless meat, chilli, or other seasonings are added after cooking.
What is in it?
The basic ingredients are rice and leafy greens such as spinach, cabbage, or mustard greens, along with ginger, garlic, and some chilli. For added flavour, axone (fermented soybeans) is sometimes included. After serving, pork or other meats, as well as chilli sauce, can be added for a richer taste.
Where can I eat it?
Galho is one of the easiest traditional foods to find in Nagaland. Many local spots specialise in this dish, such as the Galho Centre in the capital, Kohima, or Galho Café in Dimapur.
Vegan versions available, traditionally dairy & gluten free.
samathu
smoked pork stew
What is it?
Samathu is a smoked pork stew from Nagaland, known for its rich, smoky, and spicy flavours. It is typically made with fatty pork belly, a Nagaland speciality cut.
What is in it?
The dish features smoked pork, along with chili, ginger, garlic, and sometimes axone (fermented soybeans) for added flavour and smell. It’s commonly served with rice and accompanied by vegetables or other sides.
Where can I eat it?
Samathu can be found in restaurants that serve traditional Naga cuisine. While it may sometimes be listed just as "smoked pork" on menus, a good place to try it is at The Bamboo Shoot in Kohima or Ethnic Table Restaurant in Dimapur.
Dairy & gluten free
Assam
kumurat diya hanhor mangxo
duck and ash gourd curry
What is it?
A meaty and spicy duck curry from Assam that pairs duck meat with ash gourd, a squash like vegetable with a soft texture once boiled. Be aware that, like many meat dishes in India, it typically includes bones and not the best cuts of meat.
What is in it?
The main ingredients are duck and ash gourd, cooked with spices such as black pepper, cumin, turmeric, chilli powder, bay leaves, cloves, ginger, garlic, onions, tomatoes, and garam masala.
Where can I eat it?
You may need to search for it, but some traditional Assamese restaurants in Guwahati, such as those specialising in regional cuisine, serve this dish.
Dairy & gluten free.
tenga
sour fish curry
What is it?
Tenga is a tangy, sour fried fish curry from Assam, known for its light, refreshing flavours. There isn’t a fixed recipe, and it’s typically made with bone‑in river fish like rohu, so it may not be for everyone.
What is in it?
The curry usually features fish and tomatoes as primary ingredients, with mustard oil, mustard seeds, turmeric, and sometimes fenugreek. The sourness comes from additions like lemon or lime juice, tamarind, elephant apple, or other local souring agents, and vegetables such as potatoes or gourd may also be included.
Where can I eat it?
You’ll find tenga on select menus in Assam. It may take a bit of effort to locate, but with some perseverance you should be able to track down a good version.
Dairy & gluten free
Ingredients listed reflect common or typical components of this dish as served in restaurants or street‑food vendors. Variations by region, season, or vendor are common. This information is provided for general reference only. If you have dietary restrictions or allergies, please verify ingredient details independently. We assume no liability for accuracy or outcomes.
